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 click tabs at bottom of text to move to different page 5 weeks plus into Winter, as February begins, with very little
of classic sleet, ice, snow, deeply cold temperatures, in its place has been ample rainfall to keep ground from getting thirsty
and dehydrating roots systems. Earliest bloomers start showing from perfectly formed yellow buttercup winter aconite bulbs
to wildly all over the place petals of fragrant witch hazel shrub or cornelian cherry that has people asking what is that
or above head pussy willow and silver (soft) maples open up flower buds without fearing cold. Garden centers come alive with
bare root plant material, containerized trees and shrubs off loaded and lined up, along with onion sets, asparagus roots,
seed potatoes, herbs, rhubarb roots, and later rainbow array of pansies. Remember all aesthetic activity should be paralleled
with care / maintenance ranging from scheduling dormant oil spray to combat many insects and or soil temperature dependent
pre-emergent weed control applications. There can be daily surprises depending upon prevailing winds, so flexibility
is essential BUG ALARM-as silver maple flowers (greenish yellow non
descript clusters) open many insect pests can become damagingly active, then will seek shelter (diapause) if weather turns
colder again Check Everything in Landscape-any signs of foliage winter burn on broadleaf evergreen (holly,
boxwood, azalea, etc.) foliage or pine, spruce, arborvitae needles, bed space mulch for depth (1-2" herbaceous, 3-4"
woodies), wind damage to branches, structural quality of trellis / arbor, fences / gates, edging heaving, patio / sidewalk
/ driveway surfaces, outdoor electrical outlets, signs of voles, mice, chipmunk, squirrel activity, dianthus bud set / bloom,
emerging spring bulb foliage Don't Guess Read, Follow Chemical Labels-Exactly
for best results-from intended control, dilution rate, temperature / environmental factors, safety equipment, application
frequency… Getting A Head Start-germinating some
annual seeds under grow lights with bottom heat mats in seed starting potting mix or bringing elephant ears or caladiums back
to life from hibernation, cleaning self contained water features and checking pumps on warmer days, sharpening tools and mower
blades, keeping rakes ready to go out and clear up newly blown in collections of leaves, look for and control winter hardy
broadleaf weeds in lawn, sidewalk seams, garden areas and beyond Houseplants
/ Tropicals-ficus tree, hibiscus, poinsettias, pothos, dieffenbachia, ferns…have survived shortest days, will
relish longer periods of sunlight re-position maximize exposure, ½ label rate fertilizing, luckily amaryllis, hyacinth,
paper white narcissus, orchids if blooming will add pizzazz Never
Ending Mole Hassle-if currently in your landscape especially yards backing to common or public grounds remember
mole control is on going, plus nicer landscapes more earthworms meaning moles will continue stay for generations; mole facts;
very territorial will defend 'good rich properties', have 2 tunnel system-surface is buffet line direction dictated by sounds
moles hear earthworms (primary food source) moving, other insects (adults / larvae), millipedes, grubs (secondary nutrition)
are consumed along route towards earthworm, lower tunnel approx. 1' down (new tunneling indicated by mounds of dirt on surface)
is easy access to and from various areas within territory, can eat every 2 hours, females give birth (up to 4
late winter)-CONTROL-identify active area / tunnel by leveling all tunnels and check within a few hours to see if repairs
(popping up) are evident, then set traps (multiple along tunnel repaired route) choker lop or spear types, for safety cover
traps with plastic bucket, check daily for triggering, if triggered lift out of ground, dispose of dead mole, continue flattening,
setting, if activity diminishes to none-existing brood is eliminated, anticipate others moving in shortly-control options
gel poison injected into active tunnels REMINDER-GRUB control will not eliminate mole problems,
as grubs minor food source Ornamental Grasses-wrap
elastic bungee cord around clump then cut down to 6-8" remove reeds Pruning-yes
conifers, summer, fall bloomers, to maximize flowering of spring bloomers wait until flowering is finished,
REMINDER never remove more than 1/3 on any woody plant at any one time Soil Improvements-measure
sq. ft., purchase compost (amount 1.5-2 cu. yds. per 100 sq. ft.) work into dry soil (check moisture level dig trowel or spade
full of soil, tilt tool 80-90 degree angle if soil sticks ground to wet creates air pockets that dry installed
plant roots), if workable spread 2-3" compost on surface and turn ground, repeat until all compost is added will raise
bed area 4-6", rake to level and or create slight slope away from structures, cover with 2-3" composted mulch, monitor
weed growth control immediately, install plants Weed Control-3
distinctive types; physically digging, chemical applications; pre-emergent (kills almost all sprouting seed) or post emergent
(kills actively growing plant), effectiveness of either chemical control can depend upon multiple factors i.e. properly calibrated
equipment, application rate (read label), correct identification of target plant, weather (from temperatures to moisture),
etc. Remember it
is a marathon, providing satisfaction and rewards--As always -Enjoy
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